“A La Carte” Chapter 7 – JAPAN; a serialized weekly Travel & Culinary Adventure -- Come in, sit down and enjoy!

My travels on Business or with my wife on vacation, were always rich in surprising experiences. To share them, look for A La Carte weekly. The series will taste 42 countries, each with their own unique tales of foods, beverages, places and people. Know that wherever we are, there’s always a place at the table just for you.

Chapter 7 - Japan

United’s “Friendly Skies” hosted our long 11 hour Pacific crossing, with my wife being birthday feted in song and (ice cream) sundae. No candle.

Tokyo Hotel Alert. Before booking hotels, be aware that as with most Tokyo residences, by U. S. standards, rooms in many smaller hotels are size–limited ... small to smaller. Fortunately, our room actually had a closet where we could hang clothes, saving us from living out of our suitcases and sufficient room to store the suitcases as well.

I have no note of our first breakfast in Japan, but lunch was Miso Soup, a mound of White Rice, Fried Monkfish with Rice Noodles and Stir-Fried Greens, plus strong Black Tea.

From our high inner city hotel window what we could see of downtown Tokyo were Office Towers, Temples and Freeway On and Off ramps lead-ing to tri-level roads. Tokyo is a tightly compacted high rise city with no end of public transport. In the Shinjuki (mid city) district are extremely wide streets which at night become a neon light lover’s rapture. But, on the whole, streets are so compressed, autos inch through them.

That first afternoon in rain, we elevated to the top of Tokyo’s tallest building; it’s 1089’ radio tower. Peering through a dense fog, below we could just make out blooming Cherry Blossom trees, many temples and huge cemeteries. On a clear day the view must be great.

Dinner was typically Japanese light: a Rice bowl, two Sautéed Tofu patties with Seaweed and a half Grapefruit, raising thoughts no one would get fat on this trip.To counter that thought, of course, there were those wonder-fully crisp, no nonsense Japanese Beers. Not only brand names we knew like Kirin, Asahi, Sapporo, Suntory, Orion and Otaru, but specialty brews from each. Black Label Sapporo became my favorite.

Next day, things slowed down. Almost to a stand still. Based on the tempo of our internal U.S. clocks, our first exposure to Kabuki Theater made all seem as if we were in a slow-motion world. Though after a half hour or so, we managed to adjust to its pace and rhythm, but catching colloquial nuances was a challenge. As was keeping eyes open.

Strange, the theatre of Shakespeare and that of Kabuki each began in about the same time period. Shakespeare we’ve learned to appreciate, but Kabuki may still be too foreign for us; reminding me of another example of East - West differences.

Remember that story in the Preface of a flopping fish being put on a Sushi counter and consumed live. That happened during our around-the world film trip making the TV commercial that introduced the Ford Contour. One location we picked was at a Japanese monastery where filming was an everyday soap opera event. The scene we wanted had the car driving over a red lacquered wooden bridge. As we prepared to film, the Monastery Head tore out of a building, screaming “No. No. No.”.

Later, from our English speaking contact, we learned that in 1920 the Emperor of Japan had driven over that bridge and no one had since. Driving over it was a definite taboo. With American thinking, not being able to grab our shot, we readied to pull the plug and look elsewhere. However, our contact Monk said, “Wait! Let me think about this.”

Off he wandered under sun-drenched Chestnut Trees. In ten minutes he was back, asking “Can you push the car across the bridge?” Since our camera was mounted on the car hood, pushing was no problem. We quickly agreed. So, push it we did and got our picture, appreciating another lesson in the difference between East and West thinking. We American-get-it-done people tend to reach for quick answers, while our friendly Monk found a better answer by looking at the problem more slowly and thinking of options we would never have considered.

That was a lesson worth learning; that first answers aren’t always the best answer. Our temple rental fee included a substantial donation to the Monastery for “a lesson learned” and for a move we didn’t need to make.

Back to trip # 2. Breakfast was Buckwheat Noodles, Hard Boiled Eggs and Tea which would have to tide us until lunch which was being hosted in their home by the family of our local Tokyo tour guide. Getting there required a thirty-minute Elevated Bullet Train ride, which unfortunately stopped at every station. From our stop, it was another 20 minute walk through typically narrow streets past many shops to reach the house where a Fruit, Home Made Pastry and Hot Tea feast greeted us. Soon to smart quips and laughter, we were trying our hand at brush and ink Calligraphy with failure after failure rewarded with more Noshes and Nibbles. Finally some results turned out neat; we have them still.

Next, we were introduced to a traditional formal Tea Ceremony which we attempted to duplicate, working to capture its subtle intracies. Reward for success was our own Brewed Tea with another helping of Pastry.

Refreshed, our next challenge, taught by our host and his wife, a World-Renowned Pianist, was to learn to sing in Japanese their beloved Cherry Blossom song, “Sakuri”. Each of our recorded playbacks drew moans and groans. Till on take 4, the husband/engineer smiled approval and our playback sounded perfect. It should have, it was actually a recording by Harry Belafonte and his Singers. A copy for each was our gift from a most gracious host and hostess.

Dinner back at the Hotel introduced us to another new experience. Each of us received a 4-Section Bento Box, which many Japanese workers keep at their favorite restaurant to use for lunch each day. In Section 1 ours had Beef and Spaghetti. Section 2, Potatoes with a spongy something. Section 3, a strange combination of Fish, Strawberries and Rice and in Section 4, Melon squares. Dinner which began with Miso soup, ended with tea, which we raised in salute for a wonderful day, hoping more of our Japan vacation would be filled with such delightful surprises. Most were.

Early next morning, we left Tokyo by bus, driving into the mountains, to the luxury of Hotel Green Plaza Hakone, within sight of snow-capped Mt. Fuji. Though Green Plaza’s landscaped grounds where spectacular, it was the mountain 50 miles off that was the grabber, attracting all eyes to it’s white capped crest. But, as the sun set, a cloud buildup white-washed Fuji from sight, leaving us in a blanket of white.

Not so at 6 AM next morning, when Fuji again revealed its full glory.

But, we’re ahead of ourselves. Ahead of, believe it or not, a 15-course dinner. Waiters with stacked trays brought a non-ending flow of dish after dish to each table, while dispatching finished ones. What came first were pre-heated Sake containers and cups so we could acknowledge table partners and our intrepid leaders. Then the food service began in earnest with bowls of hot, spicy Miso Soup.

Next, plates with several Sushi and Sashimi choices and a Salad, followed by a palate cleansing lemon custard. Service then kicked into high gear. Immediately, each table received a platter with a cooked White Fish and a slab of Grilled Salmon with Bacon Rind. Next came the meat; Roast Pork Spareribs and Pork Steak smothered in Mushrooms. Then, just in case any one was still hungry, bowls of Peal & Eat Shrimp and Stir-Fried Vegetables. All the while beer and sake was a refill after refill.

A Lime custard ended the feast, except for a Sake refill to salute the Chef. Try running a mile after that? Around the block? The chair?

Dinner saw us through a serious pre-breakfast 6 am photo session of the splendid, completely revealed Mt. Fuji and the rising sun. My wife in a hot tub watched from a Sake cellar, while I made multiple exposures of what later included a published picture of 12,388’ Fuji-San. By 7:30 we were not ravenous but hungry; it must have been all that fresh air.

Hotel Green Plaza was more than up to the task, laying out a buffet no human could do justice to, though there were those among us who tried. Walking off Breakfast took us to a nearby Torii gate edging the shore of an elongated resort lake, which we saw best from the commanding height of a contemporary art museum balcony.

My tongue-in-cheek notes indicate Dinner that night was a disappointing contrast to last night’s feast. Served only were Ostrich Steak and Salad, a still sizzling Walleyed Pike, Sweet-Creamed Spinach Puree, Filet Steak with Potatoes and for desert, a 4-layer Melon-Strawberry Cake, Coffee and Tea. Sake was extra. How could they skimp on us like that? A conversation with management was definitely in order. Not.

On our next day, a Free one, we headed for the amazing Hakone Outdoor Sculpture Museum. Getting there was a blast. The first leg was a 40 minute Aerial Tramway ride over the Owakudani Valley, where Sulphur vapors and the aroma of previous volcanic eruptions still perfumed the air, part of the Hakone hot springs legacy.

From the tramway, for 20 minutes more we rode an electric car to a cog rail station where a 3-car train inched us to the park entrance. Founded in l969, Hakone Open-Air Museum & Galleries was declared a tribute to nature and art, owning to its more than 1000 sculptures, with 300 showing at all times. The Sculpture Gardens were rich with works by Moore, Rodin, Brancusi, Calder, Dubuffet, Bourdelle, Milles, Ogiwara, Takamura and a series of sensual statues by contemporary Italian sculptor Emilio Greco. We would rate his R, if not X.

An on-site gallery had on permanent exhibit, art by Renoir, Leger, Utrillo, Laminck, Chagall and Japanese artists Umehard, Seaki and Hayashi. Mid-site stood a breath-taking cylindrical “Symphonic Tower” spiraled with stain-glass windows from the floor around a winding staircase to its multiple level ceiling, with stereo music enveloping your every step.

My visit summation was “No where in any of our travels had we seen the equal to the collection of sculptures and art that approached Hakone.”

Return was a reverse of cog, electric car and aerial tramway.

At the hotel, we had time only for a quick shower before donning kimonos left on our beds and to hie ourselves to the dining room for a group picture and a last night formal banquet. The staff did it again, but with even more enthusiasm than the earlier dinner. This time, the seemingly endless service began and ended with Miso. In between, we tasted an uncountable number of dishes, one after the other. Platters of Sushi, Sashimi, cold and hot Cooked Vegetables with separation by the inevitable palate cleaning custard. Then, servings of Cold Smoked Fish, Grilled Salmon with bacon slices. Enveloping all, Smoked Pork and Fried Chicken topped with Fried Mushrooms.

After a final palate cleansing custard, there was the inevitable, if needed “snack” of Peal & Eat Shrimp with multiple dipping sauces. If any tummy space remained it was filled with Ice Cream, Cake Slices and Fruit. The end was more Miso Soup ahead of more Saki. This time the Saki was on them. Total time, from sit down to stand up: 2:23:10.

Still recovering from that feast, next morning we bussed to Kyoto, to much less luxurious digs. But, our hotel, the Co-Op, was convenient and comfortable and within walking distance of Pachinko Parlors and a gigantic market with every imaginable food. Unable to read the Japanese labels we knew what looked good usually tasted good. We were right. Claryce and I did not play Pachinko; can’t speak for others. But, we did enjoy some delicious fresh figs.

In Kyoto is Ikebana, a 500-year old school dedicated to teaching how to decorate with flowers. A head master teacher demonstrated three totally varied styles, the elaborate, traditional Pikka, the solitary, aristocratic Shoka and the most recent expression, Free Style. Each looked almost inspiring. Almost, because it was hard to tell the difference under the room’s terrible lighting. Convincing the teacher to allow us to lift the shades, suddenly we saw what she was talking about.

Another delightful surprise was a stop at Nara Park, to visit the awe-inspiring Todaji Temple, where was housed the imposing Daibutsu Black Buddha, the world’s second largest Buddha. No. 1 is in Thailand. Todaji is also noted, globally, as the largest wooden building ever constructed.

But the park was so much more. With its shrine, background Mountains, Virgin Forest and some 1200 roaming-free, tame Sacred Deer, Nara as legend describes it, presents a world in “harmonious balance.” Inspiring.

If the Kyoto area is on your itinerary, you might wish to take in a performance at the Bunraku Puppet Theatre, where if pre-scheduled, a master puppeteer and his assistants will share with you the secrets of building and the 3-person manipulation of each puppet character.

Bunraki is optional, but a definite must is the Shogun’s Kyoto home and a visit to the Ryoanji temple. Ryonaji is a combination temple and Botan-ical Garden with a pond surrounded on all sides by an overwhelming lushness of flowers and blooming trees. In startling contrast is its cultural masterpiece Rock Garden. A simple 30 x 10 rectangular, the garden has no plants, only 15 rocks placed on a simple white gravel surface.

Each visitor who comes to Ryoamji sits quietly contemplating, attempting to uncover for themselves its significance. For each it’s different. The longer one gazes, the more varied the possibilities. Laid out in 1636 by a planter named Soami, the rock garden has posed its enigmatic mystery for more than 350 years. Our take was that we had just experienced the most serene spot in which we’ve ever contemplated our navels.

Finally, don’t miss the obvious Golden Pagoda, where the Shogun formally housed significant guests. A walk around the small lake to the cottage side provides a close-up view of ostentation.

Lunch at a unique Bar & Café began with cold Pineapple, Peaches and Yogurt. After the cold dish, our warm second plate was baked Lake White Fish, Vegetables and a dipping plate of the restaurant’s own home-made Tomato Sauce, plus a family sized platter of White Rice. Lunch ended with Onion flavored Fish Broth. Though not noted, I’m certain a bottle of Sapporo Draft was in there somewhere.

From Kyoto, we bused to Osaka, stopping to visit the famed Osaka Castle. Built in 1496, the warlords of the castle exerted great influence throughout the country during their Civil Wars. In l583, the then rich warlords up-scaled the original palace to a larger, more elaborate version, which in less than 100 years was destroyed by fire. Immediately, the then current Lord Shogun ordered it rebuilt and readied for occupancy during his lifetime. It was, but fifty years later struck by lightening it again burned completely. In 1931, the main tower was reinforced and was able to withtand intensive WWII bombings. In 1948, it again required upgrading. (I’d hate to be the covering insurance company).

Today. Osaka Castle and its surroundings is a Historic Site; which means it collects tourist entrance fees. But for the fee, from its observation deck, you see a spectacular view of Osaka and the busy port area.

In Osaka our Hotel was the plush, International House, where we arrived just in time to tramp into the dining room before closing. We were glad we did. First, there was Marinated Beef so tender, no knife was needed. We couldn’t decide if it were Filet Mignon or possibly even Kobe Beef. A heavy marinade lent it a rich, hearty flavor that washed especially well with an icy Sapporo. Plus a refill to support our second course, a unique 6 section platter of Fish with Greens, Sushi, Sashimi, Tempura, Rice and Fish Roe. That same Pickle or Brine tasting soup we had at lunch the other day was our salty bowl of Dessert.

Two other meals are worth noting before saying “Sayonara”. The first was our tour group wrap, with lots of digitized picture taking, contact exchanges and “Hope to see you agains”.

However, the meal was less than expected, only nine dishes. But, we made do with their Sushi and Sashimi offerings, plus Pork and that wonderful Beef. The diary says “many raised wine glass toasts.”. That was a farewell to our Japan tour.

Across from our hotel, in a monastery’s VIP cemetery which was filled with lofty monuments and ledges on which sat a plate of food, which we learned was replenished daily. My strange thinker thought that in Japan, the dearly departed were treated to a daily feast, so obviously there no “last supper.”

Japan has been a tale of two trip, the filming trip and our group tour. On trip one, having completed our Ford Contour filming, we took a Bullet Train from the Main Tokyo station to the holy grounds of Nikko. That day happened to be a National Holiday with many students taking class pictures at the holy site. After snapping our own share of student pix, among other stops, we climbed the 5 levels of the Nikko Pagoda, one of Japan’s largest, for a 360 degree panorama of the entire park. FYI: the levels represent Sky, Wind, Fire, Water and Earth.

Next day we winged off to San Francisco to make the final shot of the spot with the Contour crossing the Golden Gate Bridge. Football fans saw the finished commercial on that year’s Super Bowl telecast.

Finally, the Osaka Airport bar feed us our final group tour meal, a Hamburger Medium Rare on a bun, French Fries, a Salad and from the tap, Sapporo Black Label in a chilled mug. A perfect “Sayonara”.

Starting October 26 – Read Chapter #8 – Nepal. Remember, there’s always a seat at the table waiting just for you.

® & © - David Russell, May 2008

Previous Chapters:

Intro and Preface – http://hubpages.com/hub/ALACARTE

Chapter 1 – France - http://hubpages.com/hub/A-La-Carte-Chapter-1-France

Chapter 2 – Italy - http://hubpages.com/hub/A-La-Carte-a-serialized-weekly-Travel-Culinerary-experience-CHAPTER-2-ITALY

Chapter 3 – Greece - http://hubpages.com/hub/A-La-Carte-A-serialized-weekly-Travel-Culinary-Adventure-CHAPTER-3-Greece?done

Chapter 4 – Yugoslavia - http://hubpages.com/hub/A-La-Carte-a-serialized-weekly-Travel-Culinary-Adventure-CHAPTER-4-YUGOSLAVIA

Chapter 5 – 20 Nibbles and Noshes in Europe + Mexico -http://hubpages.com/hub/A-La-Carte-a-Serialized-Weekly-Travel-Culinary-Adventure-CHAPTER-5-20-NIBBLES-NOSHES-IN-EUROPE-MEXICO

Chapter 6 – Kenya & Tanzania - - “A La Carte” Chapter 6 – KENYA and TANZANIA; a serialized weekly Travel & Culinary Adventure. You’re invited.